Handy Purse Organizer Quilt


Quilt For Lovers bringing you something new, this is a great little organizer and it is just perfect to keep all those little things in the bag that mix together! And when you need to change your bags, you can simply remove the organizer (with everything in it) and move it to the new, easy-to-use bag!

This DIY version is much better than ordering something online, as you can use any fabric you want. There are 13 pockets – 6 mesh, 6 fabric and an interior zippered pocket, this organizer is sturdy and fits in a thin bag or laptop bag!


PDF PATTERN

You will need:

  • About 1 meter of total fabric (you can use several different prints).
  • 1/4 yard mesh fabric
  • 1/2 yard ultra-firm stabilizer (Peltex), sew or fuse
  • 1 zipper, 8 ” or more
  • Wondertape (to sew the zipper, optional, but useful)
  • 3 meters of double-fold bias tape (make your own with 2 ” wide bias cut strips, see below)

Cut – Download the standard PDF templates and remove the following from the fabric:

  • 4 in the fold of the side pattern piece of the organizer (2 outside and 2 lining)
  • 3 in the fold of the pattern pocket piece of fabric
  • 3 strips 1 1/2 ” x 12 ” to secure the mesh pockets
  • 2 strips 4 ” x 25 1/2 ” (1 outside and 1 lining)
  • 1 rectangle 12 1/2 ” x 10 ” for the zippered pocket

In knitted fabric, cut:

  • 3 of the Pocket Pocket standard part

From the ultra-firm stabilizer, cut:

  • 2 in the fold of the piece on the side of the organizer
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Preparation:

If you are creating your own bias connection, cut the strips 5 cm wide. Sew the strips together to make 3 yards and press (this little tool on the left is the Clover 1 ” bias tape maker).

Fold and press the 1 1/2” x 12” binding strips for the mesh pockets in the same way.

Make the 4-pocket sides:

1. Fold each fabric pocket piece in half, wrong sides together and topstitch 1/4” from the folded edge. Set aside.

2. Wrap a binding strip around the top of each mesh pocket piece and stitch the binding in place about 1/8” from the fold. Set aside.

3. Layer a mesh pocket on top of a fabric pocket. Place both pockets on top of an exterior side piece. Then place all three on top of one of the stabilizer pieces. All of the bottom edges should be aligned.

4. Pin the layers in place and baste all the way around 1/4” from the edge.

5. Turn the piece over, and place a lining side piece, a fabric pocket, and a mesh pocket on the back of the stabilizer piece you just sewed. Pin and baste all around the edges.

6. From the exterior side, sew a dividing line starting at the top of the fabric pocket and going down to the bottom of the pockets.

7. Repeat steps 3-4 above with the remaining stabilizer, exterior side, fabric pocket, and mesh pocket pieces.  Sew the dividing line down the middle of the pockets. Set this half-finished side piece aside while you make the zipper pocket.

Make the Interior Zipper Pocket:

1. On the wrong side of the 12 1/2” x 10” rectangle, draw a long skinny box that is 1/2” tall, and 1” from the top and side edges. (I simply draw 2 horizontal lines 1” and 1 1/2” away from the top edge, and then connect them 1” away from the sides.

2. Pin the pocket rectangle to the remaining side lining piece, with the top edge of the rectangle 1/2” below the curved edge on the side lining piece, right sides together.

3. Pin the interior side with the finished zipper pocket to the back of the stabilizer piece from step 7 above. Baste all around it, 1/4” from the edges.

Bind the ‘Smiles’:

1. Cut 2 pieces of bias binding, each 6” long.

2. Wrap a piece of binding around the curved edge at the top of each side. Pin in place. Stitch about 1/8” from the fold. Check to make sure the binding is stitched down on both sides.

Note: this is a one-step method for applying the link. In the rest of the tutorial, a two-step method will be shown that takes more time, but does not have the chance to not sew both sides as the one-step method.

Prepare and Attach the Boxing Strip:

1. Pin the two boxing strips wrong sides together and baste all the way around 1/4” from the edge.

2. Mark the boxing strip on both long sides 7 1/2” from either end.

3. Make a bunch of clips on either side of the marks about 1/4” apart and 1/4” deep. Clip to the basting stitches, don’t stress if you clip through them. Repeat around each mark. These clips will help the strip fit around the corners.

4. The marks on the pattern pieces show the middle of each corner. Transfer these marks to the side pieces.

5. Place the boxing strip against one of the side pieces, with the lining sides together. Match the short ends with the top of the side piece and the markings at the corners with the markings on the boxing strip.

It will be a tight fit because the strip matches the side at the stitching line, not along the cut edge. The clips in the boxing strip should spread wide and help you ease around the corners.

Pin all around the U-shaped edge using lots of pins. You can trim the side piece a little bit if you need to.

6. Baste the boxing strip to the side piece 1/4” from the edge.

7. Place the sewn side (with the boxing strip) on top of the remaining side, linings together, and pin the remaining long edge of the boxing strip to the other side piece, the same way as the first side.

8. Baste the pieces together, just like step 6 above, keeping the first side out of the way.

Sewing the Binding:

We’ll bind these edges with a 2-step method.

1. Open one edge of the bias trim binding, and align the raw edge against the edge of the boxing strip at the top.

2. Sew the binding to the boxing strip with a 1/4” seam allowance, right over all your basting stitches. Sew all the way around the U-shaped edge. Then cut off the extra binding.

2. Wrap the binding around to the front of the organizer and sew it in place close to the fold.

3. Flip the organizer over and apply binding to the other side following steps 1-2 above again.

4. Apply the binding to the top edge from the inside first. Fold back the short edge by 1/2” before you start sewing to make it turned under in the next step.

5. Sew the binding to the inside top edge with a 1/4” seam allowance as before. When you get to one of the bound ‘smiles,’ backstitch and cut the threads.

6. Lay the binding piece across the top of the ‘smile’ without stretching. Then backstitch and continue sewing at the other side of the ‘smile.’

7. Sew binding all the way around the inside of the organizer and overlap the beginning by about 1 inch. Trim away the extra binding.

8. Wrap the binding around to the outside of the organizer and stitch in place close to the fold. When you sew across the handles, you will simply be sewing the binding together. Sew all the way around the top and you are done!

Enjoy easily moving your organized items from one purse to another!

See too: Morning Star Block


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