Shine Quilt Pattern


Welcome to Quilt For Lovers, excited to start a new job today?! This pattern is called Shine and you will definitely love it!!

For the fans of the fun prints and the ones that really appeared, know that with some metallic modifications in black and white, this bedspread will be shiny !! If you also love the look of a design that brings a new dimension and a wonderfully simple basic geometric design, you know that it is difficult to see in the lighting, but the subtle secondary designs created with the white modifications are so fun and perfect!!


So, just follow the tutorial below to get a wonderful result!

Resultado de imagem para Shine Quilt and Tutorial

This quilt ends at 66 “x 82”.

What do you need:

  • 1 Ombre Confetti Metallic Jelly Roll® by Vanessa Christenson for Fashion
  • 1/2 yard modafication White metallic – 9884 11M
  • Modafications 1/2 Yard Metallic Jet – 9884 26M
  • 3 3/4 Yards Moda Bella Solid White – 9900 98 – background fabric
  • 4 yards of your favorite metallic confetti print 10807 – backing fabric

STEP 1 – CUTTING

  • Start with your Jelly Roll, there are two strips of each of the 20 colors on the roll: 1 ° You will leave a strip uncut and the 2 ° place it on the mat folded in half.
  • Cut a 2 1/2 “x 2 1/2” square and a 2 1/2 “x 18 1/2” strip from the strip, you will have two of each cut and the second set can be placed in your drawer/waste.
  • The 2 1/2 “square will be used at the top of the quilt and the 2 1/2” x 18 1/2 “strip can be removed for a moment as it will be used to make an irregular binding.

  • Repeat this cut for all 20 strips (To speed things up, you can place several folded strips at once and hang them over horizontal line 0 on your rug).
  • Then, just cut along the horizontal line, followed by the horizontal line of 18 1/2 “the horizontal line of 21”.

This concludes the cutting from the Print strips and you should have:

  • (20) 2 1/2″ x Width of Fabric Strips – One of each color
  • (20) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ Squares – One of each color
  • (20) 2 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ strips to be used for binding.

From the Background Fabric (White Bella Solid) cut:

  • 6) 6 1/2″ x Width of Fabric Strips
  • (20) 2 1/2″ x Width of Fabric Strips
  • (82) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles

From the Modifications Metallic White fabric cut:

  • (80) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares

And finally, from the Modifications Metallic Black fabric cut:

  • (3) 2 1/2″ x Width of Fabric Strips
  • (31) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares

STEP 2 – PARTS PIECE UNIT 2

  • You will start by correcting some strips. Whenever you strip the piece, slightly lower the length of your stitch, as you go back and cut the stitches.
  • Take the stack of 2 1/2 “x WOF print fabric strips and the 2 1/2” x WOF bottom fabric strips. Place a background strip on a print strip and sew a 1/4 inch seam along the long edge.
  • Just line up the raw edges when sewing.

  • This will save time and thread to sew all 20 pairs of strips – This simply means that when you reach the end of a strip, don’t cut our threads;
  • Simply start feeding the next strip adjusted on your machine to create a super long strip chain;
  • And if the ends of the strips are not aligned at the end of each strip, don’t worry, you will cut them anyway!

  • After sewing all 20 sets of strips, attach the threads between the sets of strips and go to the ironing board;
  • Press the seam allowance of the strip sets towards the print strip;
  • To ensure that you do not receive small bubbles at the seam, press the front of the band as well.

  • Now, you can go back to the cutting mat;
  • Fold your strip well pressed in half and place it on the carpet, aligning the top of the strip with a horizontal line on the carpet;
  • Using the vertical line on your rug, just passing the edge of your set of strips, cut a straight edge;
  • Now measure in 2 1/2 “and sub-cut (2) in two patches;
  • Continue sub-cutting 2 1/2 “wide until you cut (16) 2 1/2” x 4 1/2 “two patch units.

  • You will repeat this subcutting for each of the 20 sets of strips sewn;
  • To speed things up, you can stagger your sets of strips and cut a bunch at once; but if you are not familiar with this technique, below guides you and shows you the step by step of the process:

  • When you finish cutting, you will have (16) two patch units for each of the 20 prints, making a total of 320 two patch units;
  • Keep the units stacked in their own individual print stacks.

STEP 3 – SEWING THE BLOCK

So now, with all your two patch cuts, you’re ready to make the blocks!

  • You will be shown how to make one block at a time, but if you are good at keeping your stacked pieces together, you can choose to chain together several or all of the pieces at once;
  • Or you can make them 1 block at a time, as shown (Whatever your preference);
  • Start by placing 4 Two patch units of 1 print color and 1 White 2 1/2 “square modifications;
  • Stack 4 Defines the total in this layout (Make sure to mix the ombre in your stacks so you don’t have a set of 4 that is all light or all dark).

  • Place the second unit of two patches on the top row in the unit of the first two patches with the right sides together (Align and secure or nest the central seam);
  • Sew a 1/4 “chain stitch along the fixed edge of the 4 sets;
  • Then place the White Modification square on the bottom square on the bottom line with the right sides together;
  • Sew a 1/4 “seam on the edge of the 4 joint pieces;
  • Attach the wires from the first set and replace them again;
  • Finally, place the Third Two Patch unit on the top row in the Second Two Patch unit with the right sides together, Align and secure or nest the central seam;
  • Make a chain stitch with a 1/4 “seam along the fixed edge of the 4 sets.

  • Press the seam on the open top line;
  • Press the seam on the bottom line towards the White Modification Square and replace the units again in the stack of 4;
  • Finally, place the Bottom Line on the Top Line with the right sides together;
  • Align and fix or nest the seams. Make a chain stitch with a 1/4 “seam along the fixed edge of the 4 sets.

  • Press the open seam allowance;.
  • You will now have (4) 9 correction blocks that should measure 6 1/2 “x 6 1/2”.

  • Lay out (4) 9 patch blocks, (4) 2 1/2 “x 6 1/2” rectangles and the square (1) 2 1/2 “x 2 1/2” of the same print fabric , as shown below.

ATTENTION – Observe the position of the white squares of Modifications:

  • Place the units in the second column on the units in the first column with the right sides together;
  • Sew a 1/4 “seam along the edge of the three row units, secure the threads and replace the pieces.

  • Place the units in the third column on the units in the second column with the right sides together;
  • Chain Sew a 1/4 inch seam along the edge of the three row units and Secure the threads.

Press the sewing allowances toward the bottom rectangles. Therefore, for lines 1 and 3, you will be pressing the seam margin inward; for row 2, you will be pressing the seam allowance outward.

  • Place the second line on the first line with the right sides together;
  • Align and secure or nest the center seams;
  • Sew a 1/4 “seam along the attached edge.

  • Then place the third row on the second row with the right sides together;
  • Align and secure or nest the center seams;
  • Sew a 1/4 “seam along the attached edge.

Again, press the seam allowances towards the bottom rectangles;
You will now have a finished block that will measure 14 1/2 “x 14 1/2”;
Now just repeat this process for all 20 printing screens to have a total of (20) blocks.

STEP 4 – FIX THE WASHING UNITS PARTS

  • With your blocks made, let’s go back to some strip pieces to make the frame units;
  • Again, you will want to shorten the stitch length a little – Take the (6) 6 1/2 “x WOF bottom strips and the (3) 2 1/2” x black WOF modification strips and place them as shown in three stacks, just not folded.

  • Place the Black Band on the Top Bottom Band with the right sides together;
  • Sew a 1/4 inch seam along the three sets, aligning as you go and Secure the lines between the sets.

  • Now place the Bottom Strip on the Black Strip with the right sides together;
  • Sew a 1/4 inch seam along the three sets, aligning as you go and Secure the lines between the sets.

  • Press the seam allowance of the strip sets towards the bottom strips;
  • This is pressing out towards the light, but it allows you to nest later;
  • Again, if you want to press the front of the sash to make sure there are no small bubbles at the edge of the seam, feel free!

  • Now, again, you can go back to the cutting mat;
  • Fold the pressed strips in half and reel them on the mat, aligning the top of the strip with a horizontal line on the mat;
  • Use the vertical line on your rug to cut a straight edge;
  • Then, cut a 2 1/2 “wide piece to create (16) 2 1/2” x 14 1/2 “cutting units per strip for a total of (48) 2 1 / 2 “x 14 1/2”.

  • In fact, you will need 49 Sashing Units for this project, but it was not efficient to make an entire track for 1 more;
  • Therefore, layout the remaining rectangles (2) in the background 2 1/2 “x 6 1/2” and (1) Modifications Black square 2 1/2 “x 2 1/2”, as shown;
  • Sew the units in a row and press the seam edges out towards the bottom rectangles.

  • You will now have 49 units of frames measuring 2 1/2 “x 14 1/2”

You’re ready to sew the quilt!!

STEP 5 – SEW THE QUILT

  • We will start by sewing the cutting lines;
  • Layout (5) Modifications 2 1/2 “x 2 1/2” black squares and (4) Cutting units, as shown in the first line;
  • Place the Black Squares at the ends of the Cutting Units, as shown in the second line;
  • Sew a 1/4 inch seam along the edges; Secure the lines and replace the units again, as shown in the third line;
  • You can now sew the thread;
  • Place the second unit in the first unit, as shown in the fourth line, row and sew to a 1/4 “seam along the edge;
  • Then place the third unit in the second unit, as shown in the fifth line, and sew a 1/4 inch seam along the edge;
  • Continue in this way until the entire thread is sewn;
    Repeat (or make a chain stitch) to make a total of 6 lines;
     Press the sewing allowances toward the bottom rectangles.

  • And now the fun part! – Place 20 blocks, 25 cutting units and 6 cutting lines, as shown below;
  • You can place your blocks in any order you like;
  • You can make more than one order of the rainbow or keep it random as I did;
  • Just change them until you get the look you like;
  • Once you get them wherever you want, I recommend taking a picture of them so you can get back to your layout.

  • And now you can sew;
  • Start by placing your frame units on the right-sided blocks together;
  • Align and secure or nest the central seam;
  • Make a chain stitch on the 1/4 “seam along the fixed edge of all 20 blocks and you will be sewing 2 sewing units on the first block of each row.

  • Press the edges of the seam towards the sewing units;
  • Put your pad back in your preferred layout, this is where you can refer to the photo you took, if necessary!

  • Now you can sew the threads, it’s like sewing the cut lines only on a larger scale;
  • Place the second block in the first block, as shown in the first line;
  • Align and secure or nest the central seam, then sew a 1/4 “seam along the edge;
  • Then, place the third block in the second block, as shown in the second line;
  • Align and secure or nest the central seam and sew 1 4 “seam along the edge;
  • Repeat again for the last block, as shown in the third line;
  • Repeat (or chain stitch) to sew all 5 block lines; Press the edges of the seam towards the sewing units.

  • Almost ready! – Now, just sew all the threads together; Place the Cut Lines on the Block Lines with the right sides together;
  • Align and fix or nest the seams and sew a 1/4 inch seam along the fixed edges;
  • Again, the first block line will have two cut lines sewn together.

  • Press the stitching edges towards the cutting lines.

  • Only 4 seams remain! – Place the second line on the first line with the right sides together;
  • Align and fix or nest the seams and sew a 1/4 “seam along the fixed edge.

  • Then place the third line on the second line with the right sides together;
  • Align and secure or nest the seams, then sew a 1/4 inch seam along the attached edge;
  • Continue this way until you sew all the threads;
  • Press the stitching edges towards the cutting lines.

And so, your quilt top is ready and is it not fun the way to go at the end?!

STEP 6 – FINISHING THE TOP OF THE QUILT

Let’s finish! Time for baste, bedspread and tie!

  • The patchwork quilt time came, a swirl of free movement was made in varying sizes across the top of the quilt. Who doesn’t love the extra movement that gives the bedspread?! And it’s super fun and quick quilt!! 402 Pearl So Fine yarn was used that blends perfectly with all the colors of this quilt;)

  • And then you can call;
  • Remember those (20) 2 1/2 “x 18 1/2” strips that you cut at the beginning;
  • sew them on the tie strap – you can make them in order of colors or just mix them, as you prefer;
  • Either way, it will make a super disconnected binding that will be the perfect finish for your bedspread !!

STEP 7 – ENJOY

  • Gloss finishes at 66 “x 82”, making it the perfect size to snuggle up like a large lap quilt or would also work great as a double size quilt;
  • And with all that metallic goodness of confetti, you’re sure to smile every time you see it!

We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that it is easy to follow! If you make your own Shine Quil, it’s really good because you can really make it original just by playing around with it. Try fun layouts: order of the rainbow, order of light to dark, and in the end, if you are a fan of random things – Have fun and do it your way!

FREE PATTERN PDF

See too: Morning Star Block


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *